Jozankei Onsen: Sapporo’s Mountain Hot Spring Town

Jozankei sits in a river gorge about 26 kilometres south of Sapporo, close enough that locals treat it as their neighbourhood onsen town. The gorge walls are forested, the Toyohira River runs through the middle, and the hot spring water is naturally heated by the same volcanic activity that makes Hokkaido’s onsen possible across the island.

For visitors, Jozankei offers something unusual: a legitimate onsen town experience within day-trip distance of a major city. You can leave your Sapporo hotel after breakfast, soak in an outdoor bath surrounded by forest, eat a ryokan lunch, and be back in Sapporo for dinner. Or you can stay overnight and disappear into the quiet rhythm of a hot spring town.

Why Visit Jozankei

Proximity to Sapporo. Most onsen destinations require significant travel. Noboribetsu is 90 minutes by train, Niseko’s hot springs even further. Jozankei is a 60-minute bus ride from Sapporo Station, making it the easiest onsen trip in the region.

Autumn foliage. From early to mid-October, the gorge turns. The maples lining the river go through reds and oranges while the surrounding forest shifts to gold. The combination of autumn colour, rising steam from the hot springs, and the sound of the river is one of the better natural experiences available near Sapporo.

Day-use options. Multiple ryokans and public facilities offer day-use bathing (higaeri), meaning you don’t need to book an overnight stay to enjoy the springs.

Best Ryokans and Hotels

Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta

The high-end option. Modern design, excellent food, and a forest-facing rotenburo (outdoor bath) that’s worth the premium. Rooms start around ¥30,000 per person with dinner and breakfast. The buffet dinner is surprisingly good for a large resort — Hokkaido ingredients make the difference.

Day-use bathing: Available, approximately ¥2,000. Check availability in advance as it’s sometimes restricted during peak periods.

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Shikanoyu (Deer Hot Spring)

Mid-range with character. One of the oldest ryokans in Jozankei, named after the legend of a deer that led a monk to the hot springs. The building shows its age in places, but the baths are excellent and the riverside location is peaceful. About ¥15,000–20,000 per person.

Day-use bathing: Available, approximately ¥1,500. Large bath with outdoor section.

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Jozankei Manseikaku Hotel Milione

Large resort hotel with extensive bathing facilities including a pool area. More commercial than intimate, but the variety of baths and the competitive pricing make it popular with families. About ¥12,000–18,000 per person.

Day-use bathing: Available, approximately ¥1,500. Good option for families due to the pool area.

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Hoheikyo Onsen

Not technically in Jozankei town (it’s another 15 minutes up the road), but worth mentioning because it’s one of the best day-use onsen facilities in the Sapporo area. Large outdoor baths with forest views, and the road up to it passes through beautiful scenery. The Indian curry served at the attached restaurant is oddly famous and actually very good. Day-use only, approximately ¥1,100.

Day-Use Bathing Options

Facility Cost Highlights
Mori no Uta ~¥2,000 Forest-facing outdoor bath, modern facilities
Shikanoyu ~¥1,500 Traditional atmosphere, riverside outdoor bath
Milione ~¥1,500 Family-friendly with pool, many bath types
Hoheikyo ~¥1,100 Best outdoor baths in the area, plus curry
Jozankei Public Bath ~¥500 Basic, cheap, local atmosphere

Autumn Foliage (Koyo)

Peak timing: Approximately October 1–15, varying by a few days each year depending on temperatures.

The best viewing spots:

  • Futami Suspension Bridge — the iconic Jozankei viewpoint. The bridge over the gorge gives you autumn colour in every direction. Photographs well even on cloudy days.
  • Jozankei Dam area — a reservoir upstream where foliage reflects in the water. Quieter than the town area.
  • The river walk — a walking path along the Toyohira River through town. About 30–45 minutes end to end with multiple viewpoints.

During peak foliage, Jozankei runs evening illumination events along the river and at key viewpoints. The combination of lit autumn leaves and steam rising from the hot springs is atmospheric.

Be warned: peak foliage weekends bring day-trippers from Sapporo in large numbers. Weekday visits are significantly more peaceful.

Getting There

Bus from Sapporo Station: Route 12 (Jotetsu Bus) from Sapporo Station Bus Terminal. Approximately 60 minutes, ¥800. Runs roughly every 20–30 minutes during the day.

Guided day trip: Book a Jozankei day trip on Klook (from ~$55) including other stops.

Free shuttle buses: Some ryokans operate free shuttle buses from Sapporo for guests with reservations. Ask when booking.

By car: About 45 minutes from central Sapporo via Route 230. Parking is available at most ryokans and at public lots in town. This is the most flexible option if you want to also visit Hoheikyo.

Is It Worth It?

In autumn (October): Yes, without hesitation. The foliage alone justifies the trip, and combining it with an onsen soak makes for one of the best day trips from Sapporo.

In winter: Yes, especially if you enjoy the contrast of hot outdoor baths and cold air. Snow on the gorge forest with steam rising from the river is beautiful.

In summer: Good but not essential. The gorge is green and pleasant, the onsen relaxing, but the experience is less distinctive than autumn or winter visits.

If you’re already going to Noboribetsu: Skip Jozankei. Noboribetsu is a more impressive onsen destination. But if Noboribetsu isn’t in your itinerary and you want an onsen experience without leaving Sapporo’s orbit, Jozankei delivers.

For more onsen options, see our tattoo-friendly onsen list or Noboribetsu guide. For other day trips, check our 15 best day trips from Sapporo.

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