Hokkaido autumn starts earlier and ends faster than on the mainland. The first leaves change in Daisetsuzan National Park in mid-September – a full month before Tokyo. By late October, the colour has swept down from the mountains to the coast, and by November the last leaves drop and the first snow arrives. The window is narrow, the colours are intense, and the absence of summer crowds and winter ski tourists means you get some of the best experiences at the lowest prices of the year.
In This Article
When the Leaves Change
| Location | Starts | Peak | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daisetsuzan (mountains) | Mid-Sep | Late Sep | First in Japan. Alpine colours above treeline. |
| Akan/Mashu (eastern) | Early Oct | Mid Oct | Crater lakes ringed with colour. |
| Jozankei/Noboribetsu | Early Oct | Mid-Late Oct | Onsen + foliage is the perfect combination. |
| Sapporo/Otaru | Mid Oct | Late Oct | City parks and canal area. |
| Hakodate | Late Oct | Early Nov | Goryokaku star fort outlined in red and gold. |
Best Autumn Experiences
Jozankei Onsen + Foliage
Sapporo’s nearest onsen town, 45 minutes by bus, transforms in October. The Toyohira River gorge turns red, orange, and gold, and the combination of soaking in outdoor hot springs while autumn leaves drift past is exactly as good as it sounds. The illumination event (late September to mid-October) lights the gorge at night. See our Jozankei guide.
Daisetsuzan First Foliage
Japan’s earliest autumn colour starts at the peak of Asahidake and spreads downhill through September. The Asahidake Ropeway gives access to the alpine zone where the ground cover turns red and gold against volcanic steam vents. By late September the mountainsides are a patchwork of green conifers and red-orange deciduous trees.
Noboribetsu Onsen
Hell Valley with autumn foliage is more photogenic than any other season. The contrast of sulphur-stained volcanic rock, steam, and red-gold trees creates a surreal landscape. October is the sweet spot. See our Noboribetsu guide.
Eastern Hokkaido
Lake Mashu and Lake Akan are ringed with deciduous trees that turn in early to mid-October. The volcanic landscape around these crater lakes adds drama. Fewer people visit eastern Hokkaido in autumn than any other season – you may have viewpoints to yourself. See our eastern Hokkaido guide.
Autumn Food
Autumn is harvest season, and Hokkaido’s agriculture hits its peak:
- Salmon and ikura – the salmon run (September-November) means fresh salmon everywhere and the best ikura (salmon roe) of the year. See our seafood guide.
- Potatoes and corn – Hokkaido grows the majority of Japan’s potatoes. Autumn is harvest, and roasted potatoes from roadside stalls are a simple pleasure.
- Squash and root vegetables – appear on restaurant menus and in soup curry.
- Sanma (Pacific saury) – a seasonal fish grilled whole and eaten with grated daikon and soy sauce. Peak in September-October.
- New-season sake – Hokkaido breweries release autumn sake (hiyaoroshi) from September.
Why Autumn is the Value Season
After the summer peak (July-August) and before the winter ski season (December-March), autumn sits in a pricing valley. Hotel rates drop 20-40% from summer peaks. Ryokans in onsen towns like Jozankei and Noboribetsu that charge premium rates in other seasons become more accessible. Rental cars are cheaper and more available.
The only exception: peak foliage weekends at famous spots like Jozankei can see temporary price increases and sold-out rooms. Weekday visits avoid this.
What to Pack
September is still comfortable in t-shirts (15-20 degrees). October requires layers – warm during the day, cold at night (5-15 degrees). November is approaching winter – bring a proper jacket, especially for evening onsen visits. See our full packing list.
Sample 5-Day Autumn Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive Sapporo. Walk Odori Park (ginkgo trees turning gold). Soup curry dinner.
Day 2: Day trip to Jozankei Onsen – gorge walk, autumn colours, soak in outdoor bath. Return to Sapporo.
Day 3: Drive to Noboribetsu. Hell Valley in autumn. Stay at an onsen ryokan.
Day 4: Drive to Hakodate via Onuma Park (lakeside foliage). Evening: Hakodate night view from Mt. Hakodate. See our Hakodate guide.
Day 5: Hakodate Morning Market (ikura-don with fresh-season roe). Goryokaku Fort (if late October – star fort ringed in red). Depart.
For other seasons: winter guide, summer guide. For month-by-month planning: best time to visit.